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Gaggan’s head chef Rydo Anton hopes to represent Indonesia to scale new heights

by Global Gastronaut
Posted on May 1, 2018April 30, 2018

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Bangkok to host {Re}, region’s first multinational food symposium

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Posted on December 23, 2017January 12, 2018

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In #Tokyo right now in the midst of a heatwave that’s seeing 34 degree afternoons. Cooling down with a mango ice cream.

So I finally went ahead and did it: I documented my grandmother’s laksa Siglap recipe (link in my profile 👉🏽) This is Singapore’s forgotten laksa I’ve longed talked about; a Malay dish that originates in Kampung Siglap. I’ve been thinking about writing out and refining the recipe for over a year now but the thought of going through the paces put me off. I went the whole nine yards making kerisik and noodles from scratch, not to mention the broth itself. That said, it isn’t a difficult recipe — just time consuming, especially when it comes to pounding the toasted coconut and deboning the ikan parang (wolf herring). If you want to give this recipe a shot, allocate three hours, and if you do, take a pic and tag me. I’d love to hear your thoughts. Until then like I said yesterday on IG stories, heritage isn’t just meant to be preserved, it’s meant to be shared. Nothing would delight me more than seeing this humble dish travel from my home to yours. ❤️

Haven’t been updating as much since life’s been a whirlwind and I’ve been kept occupied with a personal project after work hours. Still, it’s only Tuesday and it’s been a great week of dining so far. Lunch today was plate after plate of sin. I’m talking about that bone marrow butter in the centre of the picture that had me going back for more bread than I should have. Then there’s that grilled provolone cheese with almonds and a luscious drizzling of honey — by far the main reason that draws me to Argentinean restaurant @bochinchesg all these years. Thanks @jillyeats for the laughs!

Stumbled upon this incredible heritage bakery in JB’s old town that’s still powered by a giant wood-fired oven. It’s been been running since 1937 and specialises in Bengali curry puffs, or just karipap, as they’re locally known. These are thin sheets of pastry wrapped around fillings like curried potatoes, lamb or beef. I went a little after lunch but locals tell me the aroma of bread baking over coals and wood in the morning is simply irresistible. I also bought some kaya buns and wholemeal bread — and I can’t wait to tear into them with my bare hands.

Penang is home to more than just one type of laksa. I managed to squeeze in lunch at @jawihouse and got to speak to @nurilkarim, the head chef and son of an anthropologist who owns the place just before flying off and it was truly an educational experience. What’s pictured here is the Jawi Peranakan laksa, a dish created by the Jawi Peranakan community who are of Arab, Indian and Malay descent. Much like the Chinese Peranakans, this community thrived in the urban areas of the Straits Settlements (specifically Penang and Singapore) and arose from marriages of immigrant grooms and local Malay brides. The result is a cuisine that is nuanced and cosmopolitan for its time. This laksa itself is a coconut based tuna fish broth that incorporates spices like fennel seed and star anise; ingredients otherwise not seen in other laksa varieties and points at middle eastern and Indian influences. There are hints of finger root and a good hit of turmeric. Torch ginger slivers and mint used for garnish brightens up an otherwise creamy base and a reminder of its distant cousin, the asam laksa that Penang is otherwise famous for. This is what I love about food; it exists outside the boundaries of state control, codifies history and immigration patterns while still being a breathing culture that is lived everyday.

My search for good hawker fare of course led me to Penang. On top of my list: char kway teow like it’s meant to be. These are flat rice noodles stir fried over a searing heat. The magic isn’t in the seasoning. No that’s the easy part. It lies in mastery of the wok; of man’s manipulation of time and fire to produce a plate that’s smokey and complex. It’s difficult to go on a hunt when time is so short. I was torn between sampling all that the island had to offer and really nailing down the good ones. I ended up at Sisters char kway teow on Macalister road simply because it’s the only stall on my list that opened at 9am. While the dish was perfectly seasoned, it lacked the kiss of wok hei that I was looking for. Sure the prawns were fresh, plump and juicy and the cubes of lard gave the entire dish a nice crunchy lift. Was it because I came too early? I didn’t manage to try everything I wanted to but that’s alright because I’m pretty sure I’ll be making many more trips to come.

"I don't want this dish to end," said one of my dining companions that Friday night. We're at @Dewakanmy and about a third through the extensive degustation when this dish arrived. It's a little smaller than it looks in pictures yet its flavours punched well above its weight. This dish to me represents all that Modern Malaysian cuisine could be, elegantly interpreted with a restrained hand. It's not about taking a classic hawker creation and shoving it through the meat grinder of a restaurant and turning it into a Frankenstein dish. It's about breaking down the ingredients and flavours and assembling it carefully on a plate. What you see here are slices of prawn warmed lightly in a tart starfuit juice speckled with kaffir lime leaf oil. The green bouquet that sits on top is a selection of local herbs, leaves and shoots known as ulam, along with their blossoms. Each leaf was an incredible explosion of herbaceous beauty; one that many of us have forgotten as we lurch into urban times. These ingredients have been falling to the wayside as we embrace all that is foreign. This is one of the new dishes in Dewakan's latest menu and I've been watching the restaurant grow from strength to strength. What's being served right now is a strong selection of hits while older signatures have been tightened. The dish unfortunately ended, and with that, the curtain around what exactly this country is capable of has come down. If this is the direction Modern Malaysian can take, I can't wait to see more.

Spent all night slaving over a charcoal fire as is my yearly ritual. This time around, I broke with tradition and did a Malayan recipe for rendang tok, a dryer rendition with lots of lemongrass hailing from the state of Perak. My mum’s recipe was otherwise handed down from my grandmother and we have our ancestral roots in Central Java (okay, so my mum freaked out a bit when she tasted it and said, “Why is this rendang Malaysian?!”) It’s hard not to be inspired by the culinary culture of Malaysia when I’ve been living there the last 2 months. That said, I’ve used some ingredients from @javaraindonesia — thanks for making craft Indonesian ingredients available to all; and will also be serving my dish on a plate made by @bendangstudio_official. To those celebrating, selamat Hari Raya, happy Eid and to those who are not, have a fab long weekend! ❤️

Today marks the end of the fasting month of Ramadan, and with it goes the incredible food bazaars that’s given me an eye opening culinary tour of Malaysia. I’ve been going to the one at TTDI every other weekend — one of the bigger ones my side of town, and savouring different things each time. Satay is always good as is the selection of traditional Malaysian dishes like Nasi kerabu and Nasi dagang which we otherwise don’t get in Singapore. And who could forget the hot steaming rolls of putu bambu, soft crumbly rice cakes steamed in bamboo shells with a molten centre of palm sugar. What struck me is that the sellers speak in varying regional Malay accents and are always happy to proclaim that they’re heading back to their hometowns soon. It really doesn’t get anymore authentic than this. Swipe for more shots of what I had.

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Recent Posts

A recipe for Laksa Siglap – Singapore’s forgotten laksa
Nasi ulam: A herbed rice recipe that’s easy, nutritious and delicious
Modern Malaysian cuisine blooms in the kitchens of Beta KL
Photoessay: Saturday morning at a Malaysian Farmer’s Market
Gaggan’s head chef Rydo Anton hopes to represent Indonesia to scale new heights

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Dining dispatches from Southeast Asia, and beyond.

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Recent Posts

A recipe for Laksa Siglap – Singapore’s forgotten laksa
Nasi ulam: A herbed rice recipe that’s easy, nutritious and delicious
Modern Malaysian cuisine blooms in the kitchens of Beta KL
Photoessay: Saturday morning at a Malaysian Farmer’s Market
Gaggan’s head chef Rydo Anton hopes to represent Indonesia to scale new heights

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